In my previous blog entry I laid the groundwork for an interesting discussion about specifications. I outlined three specs that frame the performance of a loudspeaker. In this entry I am going to talk about power handling.
Power handling, power rating, recommended amplifier rating, 8 ohms, 4 ohms, 8 ohms compatible, continuous, peak, Ahhhhh! I would like to highlight an example that will open your eyes to the specification of power handling.
A Watt is the International standard unit for Power. One Watt is equal to one joule of energy used per second. In electrical systems 1 Watt = 1 Volt X 1 Ampere. Ohms law states that V = I X R, (V: Voltage, I: Current, R: Resistance). Without getting too technical it’s the voltage drop across a load is equal to the current running through that load times the resistance of the load. When you put the two formulas together, Power (Watts) = Voltage (Volts)2 / Resistance (Ohms). W=V2/R.
Now that I have totally nerded out, I will get to my point. Power Handling is based on voltage and load resistance. Let’s make one assumption for my next exercise. Let’s pretend that all loudspeaker manufacturers use the same method for determining power handling. Play pink noise through the speaker for a lengthy period of time at a voltage (relative to the expected power capabilities for that system). Use that voltage and the speaker’s resistance to calculate the power handling assuming there is no damage caused by the test. Ok, I made a lot of assumptions there, but I needed to in order to illustrate my next point. So let’s test a fictitious loudspeaker, the BBB speaker (Big Bad Boy Speaker, yea I am really clever). This speaker is a beast; it can supposedly handle a ton of power. On the website this BBB speaker handles 250 Watts and is 8 Ohms. Using our formula from above that speaker was tested at 44.7 Volts. WOW!!! That is a pant load of voltage.
But wait, the website didn’t say what voltage the speaker was tested at. Hold on, how can we know if that is what voltage the speaker was tested? Well, it says 8 ohms. Hmmm… 8 ohms. Let’s talk about impedance and resistance for a minute. Resistance is the DC component of a load. So at 0 Hz, that is the DC resistance. I’ve never listened to 0 Hz, but I would care to guess that there isn’t much music recorded there. Impedance is the frequency dependant resistance. So at 100 Hz a speaker may have a resistance value of 3.6 Ohms and at 2 kHz the speaker has a resistance of 25 Ohms (at least in a horn loaded loudspeaker). So if the impedance is so frequency dependant, how can we call it an 8 Ohms speaker? Hmmm... So if you assume the load resistance at 100 Hz (3.6 Ohms) for our BBB speaker you calculate the voltage for our ‘250 Watts’ to be 30 Volts. That is a big difference from the 44.7 Volts from before. What about at 2kHz (25 Ohms)? The Voltage tested would have been 79 Volts. Holy cow… Ok, so what we have learned here is that there is one truth: Voltage. When the speaker was tested it was set to a particular voltage. That is a REAL recorded number. That number is the one truth in our search for what is real and fake. The Power handling, that number you read in Watts totally depends on what impedance you call your speaker. That is the game that is played out there in the industry.
Peak and Continuous are terms that are also used. I think I could have an entire blog about peak and continuous power but I will keep this segment short. Peak refers to the amount of power a speaker can handle in the short term. When I say short term I mean that when music is recorded there are voltage spikes in the signal and they can often be 6 dB hotter than the nominal signal. These spikes can last for very short bursts of time (tenths of seconds) and will not cause a system to fail. However, 6 dB translates to doubling the power twice (double the power equals 3 dB). So for a 50 Watt signal, the peaks can approach 200 Watts. Many brands use this opportunity to make their speaker sound like it has more power handling by only specifying peak power.
Now I challenge you to go look at some of the web sites of popular loudspeaker brands and read their power handling specs. Beware, there are many * and Ŧ denoting that there is some special test conditions or assumptions made for that particular rating. You will never look at power handling ratings again in the same way.
In conclusion regarding power handling, remember that Watt’s are relative to the impedance, so don't be fooled. Tune in next week when I introduce my discussion about sensitivity: Part 3 – Your too sensitive you wimp.
I’m Andre LaRouche and that’s my 2dB