Guys, What can you tell me about the following serials?

RBR 116W969/967

HOO 8538292/292

BTW, which are considered the nicer of the Heresy's? I, II's or III's? Just curious as to the differences.

Thanks in advance for your help.

the first set is HBR which stands for Heresy Birch Raw and the W=1981

the second set is HOO which stands for Heresy Oak Oil from 1985

the 3's are the best

 What makes the III's the best? Can't one mod the X overs? Details, I need details! (please)

Re: serials, finishes, etc:  http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/103886.aspx

Modifications: Short version. 

The pre-1983 Heresy-I can be "upgraded"; new caps, later K-24 (or preferably the K-28) woofer, new diaphragms for the mid range & tweeter and you can swap the tweeter for a Crites CT-125. You cannot put the later heresy-I (and H-II) midrange driver horn in because the clearance between the tweeter flange and the mid flange is not sufficient.

The late 1984-1985 Heresy-I's can also be upgraded same as above, and, you could put a pre-83 midrange/ horn (K-55/700) in as the clearances are sufficient. But... you would have to change the crossover back to the type E, rather than the E2 used for those later models.

The Heresy-II's came in two versions - the early 85-87's had round cup speaker terminals with the crossovers mounted on the cup. 88 and later they used the square cups. Unfortunately, the drivers are all front mounted and you cannot swap the horns.... You can swap the K-24 woofer for the H-III K-28, and you can exchange diapragms for the mid range and tweeter. Titanium's are preferred. Caps also can be replaced on the crossovers.

The big "upgrade" for the Heresy-II is the Heresy-III conversion. The Heresy-III configuration (motor board) is identical to the H-II. Klipsch sells the parts as a kit. But it can only be done on the later H-II's with the square terminal cup. The H-III cup is, however, slightly larger and does not fit flush in the cup hole; that can be modified however with a router if that appearance is desired.

Best "low cost" practices for Heresy-I: Change caps; and make sure the rear panel is properly sealed against the braces; use speaker gasket tape.

Best "low cost" practices for Heresy-II: Change caps; replace tweeter diaphragms, and make sure driver flanges are sealed against the motor board; discard old gaskets and use speaker gasket tape.