Architectural

Mount RC7 above projector screen?

ender21 — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 16:43:16 GMT

I have a 110" fixed mount screen and the center channel currently hits my first row of seating just fine, but the second row will be a bit compromised. Does anything think this would work to mount the RC7 *above* the screen?

Thanks!

Rick

A proper (ideal?) room for Klipschorns, help needed!

yrtimed — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 01:56:02 GMT

Hi All,

I need some help, please. We are moving to a new house that has 2-car garage, 25 by 29 feet. I plan to cut off some portion of it, in order to stay with a single car garage and a properly sized room for 2 Klipschorn speakers. So, I have certain freedom to choose the room geometry, and I would really appreciate some help with that.

The ceiling is vaulted, at least 10-11 feet at the lowest point (touching the wall). In the room I want to have two "listening seats": the optimal one would be a couch, and right behind it would be my office desk. So, I want to be able to sit at the couch listening to the music, as well as to do some work sitting in the chair behind the desk (probably having somewhat sub-optimal sound in the second case). That is why I am thinking of placing the Khorns along the shorter wall.

Here is a picture of what I am thinking of:

Do you think the room dimensions are OK? What would you recommend?
I do not have any experience with this type of setup, so I'd also be glad to hear your opinion on the whole idea of the Khorns -> couch -> desk placement.

Thanks in advance!

Do you need different room proportions for a desirable 2 channel vs. 5.1/7.1 setup?

Cask05 — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:21:47 GMT

I have noticed that many 2-channel enthusiasts like to use the wide dimension of the room as the front (ref., PWK's 3-channel configuration with corner Khorns and a center Belle/La Scala/Cornwall/Heresy), while most 5.1/7.1 setups characteristically use the short wall for the front, using the surround speakers abreast or behind the listening positions to reinforce ambience and to keep the listening positions away from being too close to the walls. This would indicate that there are probably different opinions over the relative dimensions (length x width x height) of an ideal room between primarily 2-channel and 5.1/7.1 applications.

For instance, consider an example room with relative dimensions: 1.6 x 2.6 x 1 to avoid dealing with potentially nasty room modes piling up on one another. Room modes play havoc with the size, number and placement of subwoofers, the placement of good listening positions, and with in-room EQ of mid-bass frequencies.

The minimum desirable physical room dimension is probably something greater than 9 feet (~2.7 m, usually height...but not always) ) because of precedence effects and room reflections (unless you made the room into an anechoic chamber, which isn't very desirable IMHO). This would give us a minimum-sized room of 14.4 x 23.4 x 9 feet (4.4 x 7.1 x 2.7 m).

Would you 2-channel guys still try to use the long dimension as the front wall in this example?

Does anyone believe that it is better to use a room's wide dimension as the front in their HTs?

Chris

Mounting RS-42s on the ceiling

JoSixChip — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 21:55:15 GMT

Hi, I'm looking for help on how I can mount my RS-42s to the ceiling. I need to mount them pointing down. I'm hoping for a cleaner installation then just mounting them to a board and then attaching the board to the ceiling. Has anybody else done this?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

ROCKin plus SUB

colterphoto1 — Tue, 08 Sep 2009 20:01:33 GMT

Just set up a very nice patio system for myself which consists of the CS650R ROCK speaker and a single AW800SW sub. The ROCK is a stereo unit so I buried a cable from my shop building to a nice spot in the future landscaping plans so the rock is aimed back at the building and patio area. Both units are stereo within their own cabinets, that is- the Rock has dual tweeters (firing to cover about 170 degree arch) and a dual voice coil woofer, and the sub is a 8" woofer in tuned enclosure with dual voice coil.

A 4 conductor wire runs from my amplifer area in the shop to the overhang where it attached to the Sub, aimed straight down. This loads the woofer into 1/2 space, helps diffuse the sound more omnidirectionally, and protects the woofer further from the elements.

From there (without using the sub's internal HP filter) the wiring goes down the interior wall, through the ground and to the rock some 15 feet away. The Rock itself has great bass, but I had the Sub and thought- why not?

This is hooked up to a small mixer in the shop which send signal to a BGW 150 pro amp running in stereo providing 75 wrms to the speakers. This is a bit beyond the capacity of the Rock, but with both speakers taking some signal, it works out about right. There is plenty of volume without and clipping or speaker break up.

I can walk around quite a large area and hear diffuse, but stereo sound, and the sound of the rock and the sub compliment each other quite nicely. I love this arrangement.

KS-7800-THX Mounting options

ender21 — Fri, 28 Aug 2009 06:01:44 GMT

Not all walls have 16", or even 12" studs. With windows and casings for closets, etc., my HT buildout has resulted in all four of my KS-7800s having the dog ears be flush against a stud on one side. That means the dog ears that hold the speakers in place can't be rotated out and tightened to clasp the drywall. Only one side of the speakers can. Our solution is to tighten the dog ears as designed on one side of the speaker, and drill 2" screws through the grill casing on the other side, into the stud, to keep the speaker tight.

A note to Klipsch: Put the dog ears on the top and bottom so they can be rotated to the side if room allows it, but also to the *top* so the speaker can be mounted against a stud if necessary. This ensures maximum installation flexibility.

Rick

Quintet III Speaker Help!!!

fishinguru708 — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 22:13:40 GMT

Just purchased the Quintet III speaker and SUB-10 combo. Having a BIG problem with the satellite speakers....I have them all wall mounted and none of them stay in position without falling face down. I have tried tightening the 3 allen screws in the back with no luck. Nowhere in the instructions does it tell you how to tighten them down if you wall mount them. I understand they are more of a bookshelf speaker, but can also be mounted. One of the tech reps from Klipsch recommended to score the ball with sandpaper, or wrap the ball in a rubber sock for friction??? I should not have to go through this hassle to install a speaker on the wall. I am at my wits end with the issue, and with Super Bowl Sunday coming, I just may have to return them and go with another brand! Any help and suggestions would be great!!!!

equipment rack

duder1982 — Mon, 11 May 2009 00:16:53 GMT

was thinking of building one, for all my stuff, was looking for tips or ideas. Also was considering built in fans, is this a no no for sounds or will i be all right, and how should i run them. any advice will be greatly appreciated.

thanks

nick

Custom floor standing speaker locations

tpatel30 — Mon, 22 Jun 2009 01:11:40 GMT

I am planning on buying the Rf-82 series for my custom theater in my basement. I have curved walls on both sides of the screen. This is where im planning on putting the speakers. I'm going to cut a hole out for both of the speakers, but i was advised to not do this and go with in-wall. I went to my local expo electronics store and he advised me not to make a custom housing. As you can see im inept when dealing with speakers and home theater systems. Unfortunatly when shopping for speakers its very hard to tell who is telling the truth and who is lieing.

Please HELP! Thanks.

New 5.1 System (need affirmation!)

venk4u — Wed, 27 May 2009 17:33:14 GMT

I have put together a new 5.1 system with following components.

Pioneer 1019 receiver
Klipsch ICON floor standing speakers (VF36)
Klipsch Center Channel speaker (VC-25 )
Klipsch subwoofer 12" (SUB 12)
Klipsch in-ceiling speakers (KHC6) [my wife hates speakers protruding from the wall; have to hide them in ceiling]
SAMSUNG Blu Ray (4600)

I am in no way a expert; Is the above a good thought process? Need second opinions please!

Home made speaker stand help.

liebherr954 — Sun, 17 May 2009 21:20:33 GMT

Hay guys I’m going to be making a pair of speaker stands at home and I was wondering if you would be able to post some pictures of your speaker stands.

It doesn’t matter if they are home made or store bought, I would just like to get some possible ideas.

I’m thinking of making them from Oak or MDF since I’ve heard that it’s better to use a denser material.

The stands will be for medium sized bookshelf units that will be used in a 2 channel/home theater application.

Thank you in advance.

Construction question (deck) any builders or architects here?

Coytee — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 01:53:44 GMT

We're building a small room onto the house and adding a porch. Sorry for the BLUE picture, I had my camra on "indoors" when I took it.

The picture of the house...has a "skeleton" where today, they put the last post in. In addition to this post, they put a beam in, represented by the horizontal yellow line.

Here's where it gets interesting to me....

The plans call for "(2) 2x12" dropped girder" as in two of them going from the block wall to the post. Today, they cut into the house and installed this dropped girder.

Instead of being made of two 2x12x18's, it's made up of THREE 2x10's.... it gets more interesting... not ONE of them is 18' long. Each of them is comprised of two pieces to make the total length. There is NO plywood sandwiched between them.

I am not hung up on the 2x10's as I presume having three of them is going to be similar to having two 2x12's...what gets me is NONE of them are 18' in length, they are ALL made up of 2 pieces.

Logic tells me if I had at least ONE 18' board, then I'd have at least the strength of a single board, bolstered by the addition of the 4 boards nailed onto the side. As it is, I don't think I even have the strength of ONE 18' board.

Am I right? wrong?

As it is... I've put my cell phone down about 34 times, preparing to call the builder and have a pretty stern talk with him about how quickly that mess is going to come out.

I've put my feet into my mouth before so I figure I'd ask this time. No sense in proving what an idiot I can be if I have a chance to cover it up a bit!!

Thoughts?

Need help on hanging RS42's in a tricky spot

jdoss999 — Wed, 29 Apr 2009 14:58:03 GMT

I've always used speakers stands in my HT but I wanted to hang my newly acquired RS-42's from my rear wall.

When we moved in there was two pair run down the wall and out of a single coax outlet cover.

I thought I would just pull the existing wires up, drill a couple holes in the top plate, drill a couple of holes in the drywall, fish the wire through the holes, throw some screws in the wall and be done.

But upon investigating in the attic, I realize that the pitch in our ceiling from 10' down to the 8' at the walls makes it impossible to even reach the top plate much less drill and run wire through it.

Now my options that I can think of are

1. Run the existing wire along the base board, drill a hole in the bottom of the wall and go up. This would be easy but not very pleasing to the eye.

2. Somehow drill from the bottom of the top plate up and fish out into the attic. I can see this working but it would I imagine it would involve a lot of dry wall patching - something I'm not good at especially with our orange peel walls. I think I would also need a flexible drill bit just to get a proper angle. And if its a double top plate, it would twice as hard.

3. Suck it up and use stands. I've already modified my existing stands to hold the RS-42's but I really want these beauties up on the walls so I get what I paid for out of them.

Any of you guys have a suggestion outside of calling in the carpenter?

Where to mount rear rc 52's

Commando Chris — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 07:43:48 GMT

I apologize . I had tried to draw a diagram but It condensed the message and really did not get my point across at all I will try reposting tomorrow.

artto's Klipschorn Room

artto — Thu, 04 Aug 2005 20:09:05 GMT

Some of these file sizes are large, so please be patient with the download.

This is the second revision of the room. Later revisions look similar, but differ acoustically. I know some of you have already read a previous post of mine describing the construction of room, but for sake of convenience, I'm re-posting here:

I built an entire room around my Klipschorns in the early 80’s & the room has undergone a number of revisions. You & other readers might benefit from what I did & what I learned from my mistakes. The room has been published in several audio magazines over the years.

First things first. Ideally…….you need a room with the proper proportions to achieve uniform distribution of eigentons (low frequency room modes). The ratio is 1: 1.26: 1.59 (called the “Golden Mean”) (see Klipsch Dope From Hope newsletter Vol9, No1 Feb 1968). It doesn’t have to be exact. And rooms outside of these proportions have been known to sound good. Use the long wall for the “stage”. It makes a dramatic difference & you may even find that you don’t have to “turn-it-up” as loud.

Another “trick” you can use is the Half-Room Principal (Room Dimensions for Optimum Listening and the Half Room Principal, IRE Transactions on Audio, Vol AU-6, No1 Jan-Feb 1958, pp 14-15). For instance, my room is 27’ wide. A 42Hz note has a wavelength of aprox. 27’. So based on the longest dimension of the room, the room will accurately convey the full wavelength of a 42 Hz tone. But based on the Half Room Principal, you can expect a reasonably flat room response down to 21Hz (21Hz=54’ wavelength. 54’/2 (one-half of the wavelength)=27’.

If you take this one step further & use the diagonal dimension (which you can do with K-horns because of their corner placement & 45 degree angle toe in) it works even better. My room has a diagonal dimension of 32’ which ½is one-half of 64’. 64’ puts you at about 17-18Hz. My system has measured down only 9Db below 20Hz with no electronic EQ. Not bad for folded horn-loaded speaker of this size. And in fact, that puts the K-horns at about 95Db/watt below 20Hz. Much better efficiency than any of the “sub-woofers” or so-called “flat” “audiophile” speakers out there.

A dimension you want to avoid is 19’ (or multiples & fractions) thereof as it is the wavelength of 60Hz (electrical hum).

A quiet room is a good room. Avoid exterior windows if you can. In my room, I isolated all plumbing (sump & ejector pump plumbing too) from the frame of the house. The plumbing is also insulated. Same thing with any forced air vents. If you can isolate the room’s ceiling & walls from the structure of the house, do so. I didn’t have the luxury of doing that. Remember that wall mass & no air leaks has more than anything else to do with blocking sound.

In my room, I applied silicon beading to the interior of the outside wall studs. Standard R-19 wall insulation between studs. Over the studs I placed 1/2 inch Celotex http://www.us.bpb-na.com/products.html rigid insulation board. Sealed the joints with silicon beading. Silicon beading over the Celotex where the studs are located. Created a 1” air space by putting 1x2 lath over the studs/Celotex. Repeated this process again. Then applied 5/8” sheet rock (Gypsum wall board). Since my room is only partially below ground, the upper wall exposed to the outside received an additional layer of Celotex with a 2” air space between it & the wall. Similar treatment was done for the ceiling. Ilbruck (maker of Sonex acoustical products http://www.mhtc.net/~lowey ) now makes a product called ProSpec Barriers which I would recommend using between the layers of the wall & ceiling.

I also heavily reinforced the corners for the Klipschorns, from the corner, to 8’ out from the corner. I used a staggered 6-12” stud spacing, both horizontally & vertically to eliminate any wall resonances. I then made 4 “plates” out of 2x12” wood, fit into the studding & secured them & the wall, tightly against the foundation. I made a corner fitting out of 2x12 to fit securely & air tight (use foam weather striping) in the corner for the tail board of the Klipschorns to be secured onto. The corner board is secured to through the wall to the foundation with 10, 1/4 inch lag screws. The tailboard of the K-horns are secured with 8, 1/4 inch lag screws to the corner plate. The K-horns are sealed air tight into the corner with weather stripping foam.

In regards to electric, have everything on its own circuit. I’m not sure that 20 amps is enough nowadays. Obviously this depends on what kind & how much equipment you have. Tape decks for instance can draw a lot of current because of the motors in them. Make sure you use an isolated ground for that circuit, isolated from the rest of the electric in you home. Ground the system at only one point, preferably from a regulated power supply that everything else is plugged into. Float all the rest of the ground connections on your equipment using a 2-prong adapter so that the ground(s) “seeks their own level” & does not produce any ground-loop hum. If you are using light dimmers, make sure they are the kind that have RF filtering. No fluorescent lighting.

Now for acoustics. The Klipschorns do not like “dead” areas around them, so forget that “dead-end/live-end” room stuff. It doesn’t work with K-horns. I use large polycylindrical surfaces made from 1/4 inch tempered Masonite (a wood-based fiber hardboard) (cheap) bowed to 12” on larger ones (4’x8’), 6-9 inches on smaller ones. These can be painted to match room décor. Behind the cylinders I mount Sonex acoustical foam on 3-6” standoffs on the Celotex behind the Masonite so the Sonex can capture sound more effectively from all directions & angles. This produces a room with very well distributed/dispersed middle & high frequencies. The larger polycylindrical surfaces help to damp bass resonances & break up standing waves. The principal here is to allow the room to be relatively “live” at low volume levels. But as the sound levels increase, more & more reflected sound gets trapped behind the cylindrical Masonite panels & gets totally absorbed by the Sonex & Celotex behind it so the room does not acoustically overload due to increased reverberation time at higher volume levels. A simple thing such as clapping your hands can be very useful in locating “hot spots” or ping in various areas of the room which will require sound absorption or dispersion. Likewise you don’t want any dead spots either. These Masonite panels can create quite a dramatic appearance, so be creative & experiment. Keep in mind that the bow in the Masonite panels will tend to “push the walls of the room in” making the room seem somewhat smaller. This can be overcome by the use of lighting to highlight the depth & curve of the panels.

The carpet flooring you see in this picture is composed of large sections of rug remnants. This allowed me to experiment with their affect on the room's acoustics. Later it was decided that very heavy weight carpeting & padding wall to wall would be best.

New house theater issues...

Joe Shmoe — Sun, 25 Jan 2009 20:27:11 GMT

Well, it's looking like this is the house we will be moving into in about a month or so, as soon as we close. This is the original home we liked because of area, layout etc.. however trying to figure out in my mind ahead of time where to enjoy movies has me a little frustrated.

I attached a few pictures to better explain my dilemma... I have two choices for the front part with TV & Speakers and that would be either the North wall or the East wall, preference being the East wall to avoid traffic from the boys walking back and forth. Problem is where to put the surrounds. I have the KSP S-6's and really no wall space to hang them above & behind the listening area due to the slider, or various door openings. I'm thinking maybe just using some sort of moveable stands?

Dropped Ceiling and Subs

KdAgain — Sat, 24 Jan 2009 04:23:15 GMT

In another thread on dropped ceilings it was suggested not to use a "Potent Sub" in a room with a dropped ceiling. Unfortunately our Khorn room has a dropped ceiling (7') and we are stuck with it. I'm interested in the effects it has on low bass as we plan to get a large sub in the future?

Thanks,

Rod

RF-62 / RC-62 / RS-52 / RW-12d - How to setup Rear?

shane0410 — Sun, 01 Mar 2009 22:09:19 GMT

Hey, I need some help setting up the rear area in my new home cinema setup.

Currently I got two RF-62 hooked up to a Marantz SR-5003. I'am planning to buy a RC-62, RW-12d and two RS-52.
But I really dont know how to setup the rear area. Or maybe its better buying two RB-61 as rear speakers ??

Where would you put the rear speakers ? Here is a simply draw of my room. The dimensions are 5 x 5 meters

Thanks from germany!

DIY QRD plans?

damonrpayne — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 16:28:18 GMT

DrWho & Others at some point have mentioned that these are easy to make and make them look nice. Having blown out my 2008 budget on certain other purchases I'm now willing to take a look at this. Anyone have links to plans/articles?

RB-25 vs RS-42 in rear?

J.F. — Sat, 14 Feb 2009 00:38:12 GMT

Hi,

I'm beginning to be more interested on how to setup a good system.

I bought my system in 2 times: 3 years ago, I bought: Denon AV-2106; RB-25 and RC-25
At this time, I was not very rich!!! Finally, a year and a half later, I bought : RPW-10; RF-52; 2 RS-42 to complete my system.
I think I was badly advised on my first purchase, as have known, I would have probably bought 2 RS-42 but now...I have this system....
I would like to know what speakers should I install in rear: RS-42 or RB-25.

Thank you very much for your help.

mounting in wall speakers close to wall stud

Jasonscott — Sat, 31 Jan 2009 23:46:49 GMT

I just ordered a pair of r-3650-w in wall speakers and iv found exactly where i want to mount them, but the wall studs are only 9" apart in that particular spot. the hole dimensions off this site say an 8" wide hole is needed, so that will give me about only a half inch for each dog leg to come out and clamp the wall. Do you think this would be enough? Is there a way to cut right next to one stud and mount that side of the speaker directly to the stud, so than i could have a full inch on the opposite side for the dog legs. Any help appreciated thanks alot!

CS 650 W IK

flatgrass — Fri, 18 Apr 2008 20:54:04 GMT

I have one rough in kit, (enough for two speakers) never used, in the box.

These are for rectangular speakers.

I ended up going with CDT's in the ceiling.

If you can use it, it is yours for the shipping.

kevin

can anyone build a custom ET center for me?

InVeNtOR — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 23:04:02 GMT

i am trying to find someone in texas near me that can build me a custom et center. i have found a few shops but they are asking what i think way tooooo much for a simple design. i have the plans all done in CAD. if this is a hobby of anyones and would like to help please drop me a line.

thanks

Almost there: I have the tools, need help with design and dimensions

USNRET — Thu, 11 Dec 2008 22:20:26 GMT

I am adding a new thread here so it doesn't get passed up in the orignal posting under the google tool thread.

Guys, it is what it is. I suk at 3D thinking and determining measurements. I need help and it's worth a little something for me not to screw this up. I have table saw, router, router & table, drills, drill presses, skill and jig saws. If you would look in the google tool thread you can get an idea of what I am thinking http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/111012.aspx.

I believe (please correct any and all) that I would build a table/desk looking thing that is the length of my TV and the depth of the Belle. Two storage areas located between the left spkr/center and center/right spkr would support the weight of the TV and serve to store DVDs (standard and BluRay). I might toy with mounting the kids Wii in one and have the sensor located in the center between TV and ctr spkr. How cool would it be to have the storage units match the shape of the Belle fronts? (I'd even spring for the fabric from BEC or someone). Storage would only be as deep as neccessary for the DVDs and a false back or deep enough to have the Belle Vs" act as doors with storage behind.

The Belles are factory height with 3/8" glass on top. I was thinking of cutting a suitable size hole in the rear panel of the 'table' so that I could slide out the center speaker to gain access to the already installed wall plate behind that encompasses all my wall jacks. This would require some finger grip room on the sides of the center.

What? 3/4" hardwood plywood for the top, storage bin sides, bottom (maybe top) of bins. 1/4" ply for the back. I would stain the top and sides to match a croos between the WL and Mahogany Belles. Perhaps some trim around the edges to dress it up.

The base (electronics unit) of the TV not counting screen over hange is 30" x 18" (almost exactly the size of the Belle top) so for symmetry I'd say make the top 18 1/2. Screen width across front is 58 3/8". Oh, TV is 175 pounds. Total width I have to use across my room from stairs to wall is 127".

The dimensions in my word document was my memory at work but the real ones are included here. I have no drawing software as my hard drive took a leap out the top floor when it saw my last 401K statement. Cut sheets for wood VERY helpful. I can follow instructions but can't think on my own!

What other info do you need? What can I send to you for your work?

Drop Ceiling installation question?

PhilMays — Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:17:06 GMT

Off the cusp, does anyone have an idea what it will cost to intsall a 21 x 16 drop ceiling? The grid work is really what I'm after as I'll most likely buy the tile myself as I want something nice if I'm doing this. Yeppers, what I wanted to do is simply too complicated and may look bad as theire are several different "elevations" in the ceiling.