does anyone know if this is a good brand/ model to buy? http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=195291

i can get it for $175 total.  i haven't looked around too much on prices, that was the lowest i saw in a few searches.  i wanted to get the monster power one, i think it cost $399-i don't know the model number but it didn't have a voltage regulator on it. 

is there any power clean/ voltage regulators anyone has that would or wouldn't reccemond? 

thanks again.

Look at www.apc.com

Look at RS 1500's I use them of the wall to isolate the output and stabilise the voltage, and to use the load meter selection on the display to watch what the amps are doing. From there they go to Furman Rack Riders which further protects the amps, and shows the line voltage available at that moment. The beauty of the APC units is that if I have a power failure, I have at least a couple minutes to shut down.  Example: Sansui AU-111 (6L6GC tube amp) draws alot of power (200+ watts pretty much at all the time). I know that if anything happens to the line power, I've got 21 minutes to shut down. I do use one APC battery unit for each two amps (Four total in the wall of voodoo). The "clamp" time for a power surge is 0 or virtually instantaneous, both with the APC units and the second layer of protection with the Rack Riders. Are they cost effective? Well..... the first time a cheap surge protector fails and fries a very expensive piece of equipment.... And it sure is nice to know that (a) they insure my stuff for $50k, and (5) just how is the line power doing when it comes in. That can be quite "enlightening". My voltage is fairly stable at about 121-123 most of the time, but when the hurricane season starts.....

Hope that is of some assistance

Ok, there's one in every crowd...so this time, it's me....I don't think a DC to AC converter in this price range is any good.  Problem that can't be defined is how well this particular model does in actually creating a true sine wave.  Most low end DC to AC converters generate square waves.  This will result in dynamic's suffering.

Then there is the issue of reserve power....if you have a 130X5WPC amp, odds are it will draw 900 - 1300 VA's depending on the architecture of the amp.  This particular model only puts out 1200 VA's.  General rule of thumb is the unit should be 3X the rating  of you highest device.

In this price point, if you want a voltage regulator...get one that uses an autoformer or has a transformer with variable windings.  This approach basically acts like a step up or step down transformer depending on the incoming voltage, rather than the DC to AC conversion approach.  The autoformer or transformer based methods are true sine waves. Furman has some in the 500 price range based on autoformers.

Stay way from models that use a large capacitor to change the frequency of incoming electrciity thereby changing the voltage level.  As the frequncy changes, the voltage does change, but this causes issues with componets that expect 60hz.  Tripplite one in the 300 dollar range for voltagr regulators are transformers that use capacitors with additional windings.

In most cases, all voltage regulators are lousy line conditioners.  So if you want line conditioning and surge protection, you could do that better by staying away from regulators all together. 

I'm using a 2000 VA voltage regulator, with a high end line conditioner in front of it.  I don't use battery backup systems since they are all DC to AC converters, you would need a pretty expensive one to generate a true sine wave, and even more expensive one to generate a true sine wave at the 2000 VA power levels.

 

 

 

 

 

well so far there is no mention of a monster power either.  so i am going to be really lost.  maybe i should not get one untill i know a little bit more.  i don't really have a price point but i don't want to kill the budget.  i initally budgeted $400 for the monster one, but the guy said this one is usually $400 but now it's $250.  i only found it for $175 when i did a search to "see" what it looked like.

i will look into the Furman models later.....

thanks

break is over!

i just looked at the furman site, which one should i get?  i am going to have to call them and ask a bunch of questions.  any model reccemendations?

I use this one in my main system and have not had any problems what so ever. I is relatively inexpensive compared to their reference series.

http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=02&id=ELITE-15PFi

I use this one in my main system and have not had any problems what so ever. It is relatively inexpensive compared to their reference series.

http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=02&id=ELITE-15PFi

If I replace my Furman M8D's, I would likely do it with the Furman PM-Pro-II's.

I'd like to go the autoformer/ transformer route at some point, but it becomes a cost vs benefit issue. Our power here (at least in our neighborhood) is relatively stable. Each home has it's own "pole can". I can only imagine how many problems there are in densely populated urban areas. From some of the posts I've read over the last few years, it's a wonder some of the members equipment is not totally fried!!

Some don't like the battery/conditioner approach, some do. I opted for the batteries just to allow a relatively safe and quick shutdown, and because of the computers in the man cave/office room, but also added another "layer" of protection with the Furman units.

This is the one I use.  I run 4 pro amps, 4 disc players, my 60" plasma, a PS2, my pre/pro, a cable box and cable coax through it.  It has a 12v trigger input that I use to power up 3 equipment cooling fans.  It also has a progressive start up so that there's not a huge current draw when I power it up.  It's on a dedicated 20 amp circuit.  I really like it.

"Our power here (at least in our neighborhood) is relatively stable. Each home has it's own "pole can". I can only imagine how many problems there are in densely populated urban areas. From some of the posts I've read over the last few years, it's a wonder some of the members equipment is not totally fried!!" Thats they key element. If your power does not fluctuate, money is better spent on line conditioning vs regulation.

i called tech support for furman and only had a few minutes to get some answers.  in the end i told him what i will be running (pioneer elite vsx-92txh, 50" plasma, blue ray player, and a cable box) and he suggested these two models:

http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=02&id=ELITE-15i

and

http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=02&id=ELITE-15PFi

i am being honest here, i have no idea what makes these units good or bad models, i just know that i should have one.  so telling you this, i haven't a clue which one of these two are the better choice or why.  what i am also confused about is why he wouldn't suggest this model:

http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?div=02&id=ELITE-15DMi

i plan on calling back on monday to get more answers, but if someone in the mean time and fill me in, i would appreciate it.  when i did speak to tech support i got a long responce saying that they have been in this type of business for over 30 years and they deal with contracts like huge concerts and military.  so long story short he was saying they were a pretty good brand to go with.  i on the other hand trust my fellow klipsch forum members advice and wouldn't think they would stear me wrong.  

again thanks for helping out this noob.... 

how do these furmans compare with brickwalls? 

I would have thought that they would not recomend the PFi as it has 4 high current outlets for power amps, which you do not need.  Are you sure you didn't get the models confused?

no, thats what he said, i wrote them down.  here is a link where i found all three models at a good price:

 http://www.audiophileliquidator.net/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=furman&osCsid=f2cdd457e1d1816e94c9399047f3ccdd&x=0&y=0

the 15i is really cheap.  like i said i really need him to explain more. 

 if anyone cares, i called tech today and this was the answer.....

15i basic unit....not much better than the  pst-8d (or 10d).  the dmi difference i, 12 outlets on back, current meter, and no pull out lights in front.   the 15pfi has the power surge correction, which i really don't think i would need in my current set up. 

so thats it, all in a nut shell.