Well, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it survives the trip. I may not be able to dive right into it as I've got some house remodeling going on here that is almost finished, and that has been a nightmare. The plumber managed to flood an upstairs bathroom which ruined the sheetrock ceiling in part of the garage and also the ceiling in the bathroom below it. Then the tile guy had a frayed power cord on his saw and when it got wet instead of tripping the breaker it shorted out the neutral on a section of the house wiring which took out four outlets, so then an electrician friend and I had to pull new wire which entailed cutting more holes in the sheetrock to gain access to the outlet boxes, what I thought would be a small project turned into a three month headache. Then to top it all off I got scammed out of $300 by a Craigslist seller for an old Hickock tube tester and some tubes, let that be a lesson to me.
Anyway, back to the amp, since I don't have a variac I'm not so sure I want to just plug it in to check it out, (although I know I'm going to want to). I may build a simple current limiting device which will tell me if all is OK or not on first power up, or I may just buy a variac and get it over with. In looking at the schematic that Greg sent me this amp has a ton of caps that will need replacing, the multi-section 'lytics may be hard to find in the correct values so I may have to get creative here. I have some Russian teflons sitting around that I can use as coupling caps in the power section. As far as the rest of the caps I'm open to suggestions. I've always used high quality caps such as Auri's, Dynamicaps, and Theta's when building crosovers but since there are so many in this amp it may be cost prohibitive. I know some manufacturers are useing the 716 series of Orange Drops and although I use them in rebuilding vintage guitar amps I'm not so sure how they'll sound in a audio amp.
Greg W