After playing around and modifying different speaker types, the last being Altec A7's. I've decided to have a go with a pair of Cornwall 1.5 (I think). I picked up these speakers for a good price as the previous owner had started to restore them but lost interest. I've read the PDF regarding how to identify but am a bit lost to the exact manufacture date as the serial numbers are 063 & 064, yes I made sure with the aid of a magnifying glass that the serial numbers do start with the number 0.

The Cornwalls are made up of the following components. K-77M (Tweeter), K-600 flare, K-52-K (Mid), K-33-E (Woofer) & B3 xover (massive white 70uF Poly something cap). What I've noticed is the poor bracing e.g. no side or front support/brace, for such a large box I'm a little dismayed as to why these boxes were braced so poorly. If I was to brace these boxes would this effect the liveliness of the box?

What I have noticed is that some Altec A7 owners have progressed to the Cornwalls as the Cornwalls present themselves better in a home environment. Soon I will find out.

There should be "bracing" inside if they are a "1.5".  The presence of a metal K-600 horn would indicate that they are 1's. The K-52 midrange driver however, was used with the K-601 (plastic) horn. There should be: (a) rear panel bracing (3/4" birch strips), (b) motor board bracing strips, and (c) the "shelf" below the woofer.

The boxes, once the motor board and rear panel are installed are very, very sturdy. No additional bracing is/was necessary in that the construction was a very high quality birch plywood. In later models where MDF was used, the MDF is of high quality and the motor board and rear panel are rabbeted and fit into slots making the assembly extremely strong.

For detailed data on the Heritage series, including Cornwalls, for serial numbers, drivers, horns, finishes, etc. see: 

Bill H.:

 Here is the info you seek I believe........... Post some Pics when you get setup.  You will be blown away with how much more efficient the CW is compared to the Altec 7's...........Enjoy.

KLIPSCH S/N FORMATS

DATES	DESCRIPTION	EXAMPLE
1946-1947	###	001 (ending #021)
1948-1961†	####	0121 (starting #0121)
1962-1983	##letter####	20Y1234
1984-1989(?)	YY WW ####	89281234
1990-1997(?)	DOY Y2Y1 ####	135791234
1998-2000	YY WW ####	00281234

1962-1983 Letter format

A = 1962	F = 1967	K = 1972	R = 1977	X = 1982
B = 1963	G = 1968	L = 1973	S = 1978	Y = 1983
C = 1964	H = 1969	M = 1974	T = 1979
D = 1965	I = 1970	N = 1975	U = 1980
E = 1966	J = 1971	P = 1976	W = 1981

NOTES

1946-1961 dates can only be found in log book (eng. Library)

DOY = day of the year
YY = year (i.e. 99,00…)
Y2Y1 = 2nd digit of year, 1st digit of year
WW = week of the year

Date code on drivers (1994) Example - 9429 = 1994, 29th week of the year / YYWW

† Klipschorns of this vintage had the s/n hammer stamped into the tailboard, woofer access door or inside the woofer chamber.

Klipsch Date Codes ~ Site ~ Hosting by

I knew all this as previously stated, what I was trying to explain was that my serial numbers 063 & 064 don't have any prefix before them making it hard to accurately date when using the above info.

Groomlakearea51:

There should be "bracing" inside if they are a "1.5".  The presence of a metal K-600 horn would indicate that they are 1's. The K-52 midrange driver however, was used with the K-601 (plastic) horn. There should be: (a) rear panel bracing (3/4" birch strips), (b) motor board bracing strips, and (c) the "shelf" below the woofer.

The boxes, once the motor board and rear panel are installed are very, very sturdy. No additional bracing is/was necessary in that the construction was a very high quality birch plywood. In later models where MDF was used, the MDF is of high quality and the motor board and rear panel are rabbeted and fit into slots making the assembly extremely strong.

For detailed data on the Heritage series, including Cornwalls, for serial numbers, drivers, horns, finishes, etc. see: 

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/103886.aspx

 

Mine appear to be made of MDF, I'm just shocked that because of the large surface areas of the enclosure panels there nothing to support or prevent central vibration. Edge bracing to clamp panels either by screws or glue does little to prevent the central area becoming drum-like in nature.

Welcome to the forum.

Any chance you can post pictures of these Cornwalls, outside and inside perhaps.

James

jamesV:

Welcome to the forum.

Any chance you can post pictures of these Cornwalls, outside and inside perhaps.

James

James, I'm a bit embarrassed to show photos of the Cornies at the moment as there is a lot of work to do on them yet. These speakers were located in a Hall and someone stole the woofers and in the process damaged the front baffles ( I find it hard to call it a motor board, as it implies an engine of sorts, it must be the Aussie in me). The person I got them from made new baffles but didn't drill any holes. I need help in identifying what size screws were used to mount the drivers. As the person who stole the woofers also removed the damping material, can I use the normal polyester stuff as I don't know what the original was made from, the original stuff looks like something made from paper by the photos I've seen on the net.

 Hey, were not embarassed to see "Nacked" speakers...........lots of folks here can help you source the parts to rebuild these............plus we like Pictures !

No worries about what shape they are in.  Plus you can use them as the before and after to let others see how much you put into them.

Like Bill said, we love pictures of peoples new speakers.  I also have Corns so post away and watch everyone that comes to help you in the process.

James

Thanks everyone for your kind remarks. I will put some photos on tomorrow. I want to restore these beast and also do some minor mods e.g. front to rear brace, without detering from the original sound.

Cheers

Ed

Here are some photos of my unrestored Cornies, as you can see there's a fair bit of work needed. If I knew how to insert photo?