I bought mine 2nd hand off of a friend who was moving to another county and didn't want to carry speakers across the ocean with him. Before I bought them I listened to them very carefully for about 10 minutes to make sure all channels were workinig and clean...even blasted it for a few minutes to see if there would be any thermal shutoff. Nope. They sounded great and he gave me the friend discount -- $100 for the whole package.
When I purchased I was aware of the high failure rate and the overheating problems. I figured that a) the truly damaged amps were lemons, and it wasn't actually a design flaw, and b) most people blowing their amps were probably listening at very high levels. I thought I could dodge the issue by being a responsible owner.
So for four months I kept my speakers around 50-60 *maximum*, and I always turned them off as soon as I was done listening. Well last week after watching a movie and falling asleep, I woke up and forgot to turn the unit off, dashed off to work, and later that night when I got home the unit was dead, dead, dead. At first I though my 5.1 drivers were bad or something. I tried restarting my laptop, reinstalling the drivers, etc. I just couldn't fathom that the amp would overheat itself into failure mode when there wasn't even any music playing.
Fast forward through me reading about 500-600 forum posts on this topic, and I now realize that the amplifier in these things is in the class of amp that draws large current even when no sound is coming out. Doh. When I took EE classes in college, we used linear regulators on small projects, but used switched regulators on anything medium sized or above. Having never done any work with analog electronics, though, it never occurred to me that they would use a linear regulator for a circuit this big. It makes sense to me now after reading about the noise issues of a switching regulator, but I was still truly caught off guard. I really think if I had continued to turn the unit off after every use then they would still be working today.
Anyway, this is a long rambling post which mainly begs to ask two questions.
1) Even if this amplifier is poorly designed and doesn't conduct heat efficiently enough, why isn't there a thermal shutoff before the system fries itself? That seems like the bigger WTF to me. Sure, Klipsch outsourced the amp design and construction, but they could have at least built in safeguards. I'm surprised none of these things have caught on fire. The pictures I found online today of some of these blown amps look like they weren't far from burning the house down.
2) Has anybody here sent their amp to that guy on ebay? If he can be trusted and is still in business, I would much rather spend $60 getting him to fix the root problem, rather than $90 for Klipsch to send me another faulty amplifier. From what I've read, that is all that their amp "service" consists of...
Anyway, I didn't get a chance to see if headphones work yet. I didn't realize until just today that to operate in headphone mode you have to push a button. I could never figure out what "HP" meant when I tapped the power button because I never had the original owner's manual...yes, I am stupid. :)
Thanks for any pointers you can provide.
Edit: Well the thread is locked for some reason, which I don't understand. Is this how Klispsch acknowledges their failures? By silencing the people who speak up?
Anyway, I did see your post. Unfortunately I bought mine 2nd hand from a friend so I don't have the store receipt. I was figuring that since Klipsh is able to replace the amp board and bring the system back to life, there must be some way to fix the board myself in a more permanent way. I love these speakers and would like to try to fix the problem itself instead of fixing the symptoms (which from reading these forums, it seems that the symptoms inevitably and always come back to haunt you.)
I'm a music fanatic and I was impressed with these speakers from the first moment I turned them on. This is the first set of speakers where I can actually hear the MP3 compression. I played my Smashing Pumpkins Siamese Dream CD (had it since I was 12) and the difference between the CD and the 128bit MP3 is unreal.
Later this summer I'm going to take it apart and see if I can fix it. Hopefully its just a few fried components, and the traces themselves are unharmed. It doesn't seem to hard to replace a couple components as long as they are available on digikey or parts-express. I'm not very good with analog electronics but I have a handheld scope and some digital electronics tools so i'm going to give it a whirl later on when I have time. I'll let you know if I figure something out. Ideally I will install some cooling (Peltier maybe) and get this thing fixed for good.