ATI AT602 or AT1202 for bigger rooms. Rock solid US made muscle amps, great specs, dead quiet, gain controls, clip indicators. If there is bass in the recording, they'll feed it into whatever load with grace. I got mine from classic audio parts, sold as b-stock, but with the full 7 year warranty. Can't find a blemish on it. If your CWIII's are singing along, some dowels and gorilla glue inside the cabs will shut them up and take up minimal space in the cabs. And Chris was right about

[quote user="muel"]Most of us are chasing the sound that sounds best to us. If someone uses a higher quality master for the high resolution download or 16/44.1 CD most of us would probably want the better master version which ever that is.[/quote] That's the money shot right there. I agree w/ Chris that the dynamic range database should be consulted. And caveat emptor, as always. Consider merchants like HD Tracks, but keep in mind they are not responsible for the mastering/production

[quote user="muel"] [quote user="Ski Bum"]...as there is no demonstrable audible benefit from the higher sampling rate and bit depth over 16/44.1.[/quote] I keep seeing/hearing people say this and they seem so emphatic. Simply not my experience. I can't help but wonder if the so called 24/192 material that they heard didn't perhaps get up converted from 16/44.1 in which case I wouldn't expect any improvement. Perhaps if you tried down converting some true 24/192 material

Looking at the dynamic range database, it appears some of the 24/192 material has less compression than their counterparts. Figures they would do that, as there is no demonstrable audible benefit from the higher sampling rate and bit depth over 16/44.1.

Billy, I think you're good, so focus on the important things, like figuring out what music to play next. You don't need to tweak the levels unless there is an audible issue, i.e. idle hiss (doesn't sound like there is any), or if you desire more useful range of your volume control (this is not only practical, but can improve S/N too, although again it doesn't sound like you have any problems), or if you have teenagers and need to idiot-proof your rig.

[quote user="billybob"]There are 2 level small rotating knobs on each input to the amp from preamp. I have those basically like they were which is all the way to right stop. Question is does it matter? Or, what am I wanting to level?[/quote] ...the level controls are on the amp? If so, those are gain controls, and it sounds like you have them maxed. That's fine, provided there is no idle noise coming through your speakers. If you want, you can back those off to get more useful range

I think the saying is "there is no replacement for displacement". Also, the old drunkard's standby, "too much is just enough" seems to apply. Enjoy the music!

I have a Decware amp I'd part with. I've got it listed elsewhere right now for $600. It provides the gossamer smooth SET sound and proverbial 3-D soundstage/image holographic trickery, but only 2 watts. The Jub looking things in your avatar would make the most of what it has to offer.

Perhaps there is a local shop willing to let you use theirs. That's what I have done (a big thanks to Don the Sound Doctor in Loveland, CO). It really doesn't make much sense to invest in a bunch of testing gear for a one-off project.

Keith(OP), just for information sake, here is a quick measurement taken of a fool's bi-amped Crites x-over equipped forte II, ATI602 on woofs, Decware amp (about 2w) on the horns...ignore the lumpy bass, that's room modal response...the 2nd order (red) and 3rd order (purple) harmonic distortion is high, but it doesn't sound bad, in fact it sounds remarkably vibrant and real. Just wanted to post this to let you know what sort of thing you can expect if you try something similar. This particular