Interesting thread. I've heard a LOT of subs and the F112 that I heard was fairly impressive because it sounded good and was tiny. Does it compare to something that is actually allowed to use some space and enclosure volume? No. Let's keep a little perspective here. The F113 was tested at 2 meters GP outdoors, NOT 1 meter and it's in a big parking lot with nothing within 10m. All tests done by Illka and AVtalk both are in this format. It pulled off about 110db or more clean from 30hz

[quote user="Mike Price"] [quote user="Ricci"] +1 on the drivers that DrWho mentioned. I have SDX's and they sound very good and will really rock your music with appropriate power (which you have). I don't have direct experience with the AE's but they get a lot of praise, and the design is very nice. A pair of either will be several cuts above your 10" JL. [/quote] Yeah , I just got a chance to model them in Winisd , and I like the SDX alot , the av-15 doesnt

+1 on the drivers that DrWho mentioned. I have SDX's and they sound very good and will really rock your music with appropriate power (which you have). I don't have direct experience with the AE's but they get a lot of praise, and the design is very nice. A pair of either will be several cuts above your 10" JL.

I haven't heard those bad boys but i have heard various other Genelec's lower down the line. Good stuff. I've also spent quite a bit of time mixing on those M-Audio's last year and I'll be honest I like the Mackie HR824's and even Behringer's much better. The M Audio's just didn't seem as neutral to me. More like a normal Hifi kind of sound with a bit of extra warmth in the low mids and upper bass. I don't know, it could've been the guys set-up/ room though

[quote user="Jay481985"] [quote user="CECAA850"] Welcome to the forum. If you're not using passives, I don't think I'd call them clones, it might get confusing. If you can't find TS parameters (which you'll definately need) I believe parts express sells a device that will take a sub driver and measure/calculate them for you. It's about a hundred dollars if I remember correctly. Please post pics as you go! [/quote] take it for what it is, it will not be

Many guitar cabs are 5/8's particle board or a good plywood if you are lucky. The good ones will be 3/4" ply material and have some light bracing. Usually there is nothing more than a center pillar brace from front to back and that's about it. There is an emphasis on light weight and cheap production costs since they are packed around alot. Many also have little to no bracing in them. This isn't that big of a concern because guitar cabs aren't made or needed to be extremely accurate

Looks like I missed it. It says that the free poster giveaway has been completed now. Dang it.

0-16 Good Lord that's bad. The Rams should play the Chiefs to decide who gets to play the Lions in a loser takes all game called the Toilet Bowl.

[quote user="HardOn4Klipsch"] John is very much right, if you do the math in order to reach max at reference level of about 114 dB which is rare in movies you only need 16 watts on a speaker that had a 102dB effciency. [/quote] In addition to what DrWho said ... Don't forget that the sensitivity measurement is usually in the midrange somewhere and that it is referenced to 1 meter from the speaker usually. Every time you double the distance from the speaker you generally lose 6db of

[quote user="DeanG"] Yes, they do. They can change the sound of a system completely... [/quote] +1 IMHO any change to the sound from a set properly functioning and utilized set of cables will be incredibly minuscule and virtually indetectable. This is not to say that a cable cannot change the sound drastically, but the ones that do are coloring the sound whether engineered to do this, or not. If that's your kind of thing feel free. You'll get much more controllable and drastic changes