[quote user="dollar bill"] That's because the MkII and beyond D.D. Technics are Quartz locked at zero. Earlier models and belt drives have just as much drift as other manufacturers. [/quote] The TD 124 MKi and MKII are both idler drive tables not direct drive. A belt drives a a stepped wheel that contacts a rubber wheel that in turn contacts the inner rim of the platter.

[quote user="LarryC"] Left vs right depends on whether the bars are at the top or bottom (I don't know this TT), so I say if the bars are drifting the direction the platter is moving (CW) it's faster than 33 and if drifting backward (CCW) it's slower. [/quote] I think we have indicated the same information (after my edit). The bars are printed on the bottom of the platter on a thorens td124, but they are viewed through a small mirror which makes them act like they are printed

One of mine would not adjust. I could only speed it up. I did all sorts of things to try and fix it. I replaced the belt. Cleaned the inside of the platter where the idler wheel drives it. I moved the magnet all over the place. It finally corrected when I rebiult the motor which included resoldering a few connections and removing the suppressor cap. I am waiting for a new cap from switzerland.

See my edit above on the motion of the strobe in my previous post. Too fast and the bars start walking to the left. Too slow and they walk to the right.

If I remember correctly, given that you start at the correct speed (strobe bars are stationary), turning the control dial clockwise will increase the speed (stobe bars move to left). Turning the control dial counter clockwise decreases the speed (strobe bars move to the right). Again this is from memory and my memory is not what it used to be. I will confirm tonight. I have noted that on the three tables I have done, the dial will continue to move even though you have reached the maximum adjustment

Just to clarify, the pocket screws have the advantage of drawing the parts together for good glue contact. When using a nail gun with a but joint I usually have to clamp the pieces to assure that the nails hold the joint tight and in alignment. I am probably to picky. I generally use a nail gun when I am securing rabbit or dado joints because there is some alignment built into the joint and there are more glue surfaces.

[quote user="davidness"] (Off Topic Bump) So, "Powered by Honda", I'm curious about your affiliation with Honda. As a former CR-125, NSX-T (twice!), and S2000 owner, I just need to know! [/quote] Current Hondas...Ridgeline, Accord, CRV, Snowblower, Powerwasher, Generator Prior Hondas...Three Civics, Acura MDX

You can sand them very carefully with an orbital sander with medium then fine grit. Be especially careful around the edges and corners. Just enough to take off the finish and open up the wood pores. Get some watco walnut danish oil and keep putting on light coats until you get the desired darkness. Let each coat dry for a day or two. Wait for a week after the last coat and then add 2 or 3 very light coats of butchers wax. Buffing after each coat. I am in the middle of this process on a friends cornwalls

MDF works great with pocket screw joinery. The Kreg jig is available at most Lowes stores. The system has a special self tapping screw that was designed for MDF. I have glued the joint and used the screws as a clamping method and then backed out he screws for reuse. I have tried to break the glue joint and the joint remains while the MDF breaks first. See this site: http://www.kregtool.com/index.php

In my limited experience MDF sounds a little dead. The plywood produced a livelier sound in the mid bass sounds. I have only compared with Heresies boxes. I liked the standard klipsch plywood box better. On the other hand I have noticed that a center brace in the standard cornwall cabinets tightened up the clarity in the same mid bass tones.