I ran MG1.5QR's for almost 10 years with a 200wpc Luxman. I drove them pretty hard over that period of time and never had a problem with them. I almost went to the 1.6QR but decided to go Klipsch after hearing some RB-5's on a good system. Ribbons sound great and throw a nice expansive soundstage. I think they would sound great pushed with an Emotiva XPA-2.

Checking into a forum and reading threads of interest isn't the same as contributing -- which can really eat up the hours in a day. As for making "it official" -- it's just a way of keeping himself accountable. And let's get real here -- what can a person possibly say that they haven't already said after 25,000 posts? I can relate to his thinking. At least he said goodbye -- most people just leave and you never hear from them again. No wonder Klipsch let Michael go -- why

It seems the more we talk about the importance of a smooth power response, the less people understand the importance of a smooth power response.

The networks were glued to the back of the speaker -- are the parts just missing and the masonite plates still attached? Toggle switch still attached, or gone? It might cost less just to buy a used pair than to rebuild your boxes from scratch. The crossovers would cause the biggest problem for you.

Hi Leo, nice to see you posting (and a good one too)

Yes, it is correct.

You and Greg going for the 300Hz transition point on that one?

I've had that happen before too -- cool huh (auto post count multiplier).

The problem with kits is that you have to provide some level of support. This is difficult for me since I have a normal day job and my wife works nights. My evenings are spent enjoying my children (ages 4, 6, & 9). I no longer have the time to help people through projects. Weekends are spent regaining my sanity and getting things done around the house. I had thought about writing a tutorial, but then I leave myself open to having to deal with the problems and mistakes caused by inexperience.

If you've seen the list from partsexpress, then yes, that's the list. I use those parts because they strike the best balance between higher quality and practical application. The only place to put the 5uF cap is on top of the two HF coils (you have limited geography on the PCB, and of course the new parts are much larger than the parts they are replacing). The 5uF Kimber also has the longer lead length necessary to reach the original solder points (holes) on the board. You can't go to